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Dolphins and Sphinxes: A stroll on Chelsea Embankment

Posted on 14th October, 2023 in London

I’ve passed the Embankment, London countless times on the bus from Bristol, and have always enjoyed gazing out at the many fascinating sights – Blue Plaques, statues, churches, gardens, and of course the Thames and its wonderful bridges.

But the best way to see it is to get off the bus and have a wander. Here are a few of the highlights of a stroll I did a while ago.

Battersea Bridge

Joseph Bazalgette (1819-1891) designed the Victoria, Chelsea and Albert Embankments as part of his design for London’s sewage system. He also designed the Battersea Bridge. The first bridge, constructed in 1766, was built of wood. It was a dangerous and unattractive structure, and because it was placed at an awkward angle, vessels frequently collided with it. It was demolished in 1885 after becoming unsafe. Joseph Bazalgette’s new cast iron bridge was opened in 1890.

You can find out more about Bazalgette’s work on the Museum of London website.

Albert Bridge

Designed by Rowland Mason Ordish, Albert Bridge opened in 1873, three years late and wildly over budget. There were concerns about the safety of the bridge, which vibrated when crossed by large numbers of pedestrians. In 1879 the toll booths at either end were closed. In 1884 Bazalgette carried out structural repairs, and a weight limit of 5 tons was imposed. There were plans to demolish the bridge in 1960, which were opposed by local residents. The bridge survived, with a two ton weight limit. It was closed for repairs between 2010 and 2011, and is now open, with weight restrictions.

The sphinx

Geroge Vulliamy (1817-1886) designed the wonderful sphinx benches along the Embankment. George trained as an architect after leaving Westminster School, and after serving articles with the engineers Joseph Bramah & Sons he joined the practice of Sir Charles Barry. He practised as an architect from 1843, and in 1861 he was appointed chief architect to the Metropolitan Board of Works.

He also designed the lamp posts with their striking sturgeon-entwined bases.

38 Cheyne Walk

The house, completed in 1899, was designed by Charles Robert Ashbee (1863-1942), who set up the Guild and School of Handicraft in London. The Guild made furniture and metal work, and was run as a co-operative. Ashbee later relocated it to the Cotswolds.

Ashbee also designed 37 and 39 Cheyne Walk. Number 39 is still there, but Number 37, which was his family home and studio, has now been demolished. You can see a photograph of No 37 on the RIBA website.

Chelsea Old Church

On the night of 16 April 1941 when Nazi bombs started falling on London, five fire watchers – Henry Frankland, Yvonne Green,  Michael Hodge, Sidney Sims, and Frederick Winter – took cover in Chelsea Old Church. By morning they were all dead, buried in the rubble of the church which was left “a mass of ruins” after a direct hit (Chelsea News and General Advertiser, 25 April 1941).

The medieval church, which had associations with Sir Thomas More (the family tomb), Henry VIII (who worshipped there), John Wesley (who preached there), and Sir Hans Sloane (the 1753 memorial to the physician whose collection of curiosities formed the basis of the British Museum), was completely destroyed. It was rebuilt and reconsecrated in 1958, and a plaque was installed commemorating the five fire watchers.

The church is famous for its memorials, many of which were salvaged from the ruins. Two I didn’t expect to see were these:-

 

Boy With a Dolphin

 

This is the saving the best till last! I love this sculpture – Boy With a Dolphin (1974) – which is by Albert Bridge. It was made by David Wynne (1926-2014), who also sculpted The Beatles. Wynne’s son, Roland, posed for the Boy. There’s a companion piece, Girl With a Dolphin (1973) at Tower Bridge.

If you fancy a guided walk around Chelsea you could try this tour from the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea Virtual Museum.